I’ve been sharing a lot of news lately about President Jimmy Morales’ ongoing attack of the CICIG (the UN-backed commission to investigate organized crime and corruption in Guatemala.)
The concern is not only for the individual members of CICIG and their invaluable work, but also for justice and the rule of law in general.
The continuing assault on the CICIG is perhaps the most visible action of those who desperately seek to maintain Guatemala in a state of impunity and lawlessness. This dark alliance of politicians, military officials, economic elite, and others are willing to undermine democracy, and embrace illegality, in order to maintain their power and privilege. They are known as the “Pact of Corruption.”
Today we are witnessing three frightening results of their efforts:
1.) The presiding judges in the corruption case against the brother and son of President Jimmy Morales have dismissed the CICIG as co-prosecutors in the case. The judges ruled (without any request from the defense lawyers!) that CICIG’s absence in today’s proceedings justified their removal as co-plaintiffs. Also implicated in the case are high-ranking officials from the previous Patriot Party administration.
2.) The three Constitutional Court judges who challenged the arbitrary and unconstitutional decisions of President Morales to expel the Swedish Ambassador, and later, the CICIG from Guatemala are at risk of being tried for “exceeding their mandate.” A congressional committee is meeting right now to determine if they will be stripped of their immunity from prosecution in order to face trial.
3.) Congress is currently considering reforming the “National Reconciliation Law.” This reform would illegally grant a blanket amnesty to all military officials who committed crimes against humanity during the armed conflict. These crimes include the forced disappearance, rape, torture, sexual slavery, massacres, and genocide committed against the Mayan indigenous people. For those who have been already been found guilty and sentenced, the amnesty would order their immediate release from prison.
I had told him about the exhumations of the mass graves from the internal armed conflict, and the process of identifying the remains of the massacred innocents.
“One of the most heartbreakingly poignant moments” I added, “was returning the bodies to the families for proper burial.”
This process included the ‘dressing of the bones’… placing the remains of the victims into brand new clothes as we laid the bodies out in rustic wooden coffins. These clothes were gifts of love and remembrance from the family members: painfully expensive, gorgeously elaborate huipiles (woven blouses), colorful skirts, and bandanas to carefully cover the skulls. Mementos, such as photos, toys, jewelry, or cacao beans (considered to be currency in the afterlife) were also added.
These stories moved Julio to write a poem –powerful in its simplicity– that I want to share with you. Julio thanked me for helping to inspire the poem… but the opposite is equally true. I am thankful to him for finding beauty and meaning in the work that I do.
A un cuerpo que se viste para su entierro
Caerá tu falda sobre la tierra como cayó alguna vez junto a tu cama.
Te ves igual de hermosa vestida de colores, aunque solo seas polvo y hueso.
– Julio Serrano Echeverría, Actos de Magia
To a body that is dressed for its burial
Your skirt will fall to the earth as it once fell by your bedside.
You look just as beautiful dressed all in colors, even if you are only dust and bone.
– Julio Serrano Echeverría, Acts de Magic (my unofficial translation)
I have just returned from a visit to the village of Ixquisis, where community members are in peaceful resistance to the imposition of a massive hydroelectric project that threatens to divert their river and dry up their farmlands.
The Human Rights Defenders Project participated as part of a caravan in solidarity with the brave people of Ixquisis. I was well-accompanied by other human rights defenders, environmental activists, community leaders, spiritual guides, artists, and indigenous authorities.
Ixquisis is the very definition of remote. We were on the road (and I use that term loosely) for nearly 18 hours before reaching the village. Forging rivers, crossing mudslides, climbing rock-strewn mountains, traversing dense forest…. we finally arrived in an area so intensely green that it soothed me to my soul.
(Ironically, I’ve found that many of the worst atrocities and grave human rights violations in Guatemala occur in the most unimaginably beautiful places.)
All through the day we met, shared stories, and ate together in an open field. A sense of mutual support and shared struggle united those of us gathered on the grass.
As night fell, I wandered far from the cooking fires, songs and dancing.
Alone, I looked up.
In a place so free from overdevelopment and light pollution, the night sky was breathtakingly brilliant. It had been years, if not decades, since I saw a sky so iridescent with countless shimmering stars. I stood in silent awe.
Maybe you’ve had that same feeling? Of belonging. Of purpose. That perfect moment when you know (not feel, not sense, but know) that you are in the right place, at the right time, doing the right thing.
A prayer of gratitude slipped unbidden from my lips: thank-you.
I lowered my sight to the darkness of the night and searched for the light of the cooking fires. Following the flames, and the sounds of laughter and music, I returned to my people.
As the Fuego Volcano near Antigua continues erupting with beautiful violence, I am reminded of a passage from White Teeth, the captivating novel by Zadie Smith. It describes the life of immigrants in a foreign land and the inevitable clash of cultures. In one section, the main character divides the world’s citizens into two very different groups: those who live at the mercy of the earth’s capricious quirks, and those who do not.
Guatemala’s volcanoes, mudslides, earthquakes and hurricanes serve as a constant reminder of how fragile and precarious existence can be. Life here is, indeed, a midnight thing.
To Alsana’s mind the real difference between people was not color. Nor did it lie in gender, faith, their relative ability to dance to a syncopated rhythm or open their fists to reveal a handful of gold coins.
The real difference was far more fundamental. It was in the earth. It was in the sky. You could divide the whole of humanity into two distinct camps, as far as she was concerned, simply by asking them to complete a very simple questionnaire, of the kind you find in Woman’s Own on a Tuesday:
(a) Are the skies you sleep under likely to open up for weeks on end?
(b) Is the ground you walk on likely to tremble and split?
(c) Is there a chance (and please check the box, no matter how small that chance seems) that the ominous mountain casting a midday shadow over your home might one day erupt with no rhyme or reason?
Because if the answer is yes to one or all of these questions, then the life you lead is a midnight thing, always a hair’s breadth from the witching hour; it is volatile, it is threadbare; it is carefree in the true sense of that term; it is light, losable like a key ring or a hair clip.
And it is lethargy: why not sit all morning, all day, all year, under the same cypress tree drawing the figure of eight in the dust?
More than that, it is disaster, it is chaos: why not overthrow a government on a whim, why not blind the man you hate, why not go mad, go gibbering through the town like a loon, waving your hands, tearing your hair?
There’s nothing to stop you—or rather anything could stop you, any hour, any minute. That feeling. That’s the real difference in a life. People who live on solid ground, underneath safe skies, know nothing of this.
——- Dedicated to three amazing Js:
Jennifer Trowbridge: For first sharing this with me.
Julia Pimentel: This is the text I promised to send so long ago.
Stephanie Jolluck: For allowing me to share her gorgeous photograph of the Volcan de Fuego!
Over the weekend I attended a performance at the Metropolitan Opera House in New York. The best part? I didn’t even have to leave Guatemala City.
I was invited by Julia Pimentel, lawyer & soprano extraordinaire, to attend the live simulcast transmission of the new opera Marnie at the Dick Smith Theater of the Instituto Guatemalteco Americano (IGA).
It was part of the Metropolitan Opera’s “Live in HD” program, where operas are broadcast live from the Met to over 2,200 cinemas in over 70 countries!
It was a thrilling experience… the screen at the IGA theater showed folks arriving at the Met, and the sound of the orchestra warming up filled the room. I closed my eyes for a moment and felt instantly transported to Lincoln Center.
I confess that watching the opera on a screen isn’t quite as magical as being there in person, awash in the electricity of the audience and immersed in the majesty of the Met. There were, however, some unexpected benefits to watching a performance close-up, especially this one.
Marnie is modern opera, incorporating many of the best elements of stage theater. The music is sparsely beautiful, and the sets minimalistic, relying on graphic projections to add texture, color and content to the scenery.
The acting was simply outstanding. The marvelous vocal performances were enhanced by the facial expressions of the cast, especially the opera’s troubled heroine, Isabel Leonard. Her eyes often conveyed as much feeling and meaning as the lyrics themselves.
The story is based on a novel by Winston Graham, which was also made into a film by Alfred Hitchcock (starring Tippi Hedren and Sean Connery.)
It is a psychological thriller, telling the tale of Marnie, a woman so haunted by her past that she cannot fully live in the present. Instead she escapes from place to place, from face to face, changing identities as easily as she changes the color of her hair. Her exhausting existence is reduced to routine of thievery and deceit. When her past –finally and inevitably– catches up with her present, it becomes a moment of liberation. “I am finally free,” she sings … as the police escort her away.
(For those of you screaming “spoilers!,” I disagree. I would argue that church and the opera are two places where knowing the ending of the story beforehand actually enhances your experience.)
The next opera to be broadcast will be La Traviata on December 15th. For more information on watching an HD simulcast near you, use the Met’s theater finder!
The armored jeeps were lined up single file along a Guatemala City street on August 31 in an ominous queue. By mid-morning, images began circulating of the jeeps outside the offices of a U.N.-backed anti-corruption commission that has played a key role in bringing down corrupt officials. More jeeps were spotted in the vicinity of the National Palace, along with military personnel. In a country with a not-so-distant past of military coups and massacres, the photographs and videos spread like wildfire, raising alarm as people scrambled to find out what was going on. […]
Regardless of the shifting rationales, one thing is now clear: The Guatemalan government violated an agreement with the United States regarding the latter’s donation of Jeep J8s. Both the U.S. Department of State and the Department of Defense confirmed to The Intercept that the vehicles were donated for use by specific Guatemalan interagency task forces for counternarcotics operations in border regions. Their transfer or use outside of those parameters would constitute a violation of the donation agreement.
The Guatemalan state was slaughtering tens of thousands of people in the 1980s. To this day, few people have heard about the Guatemalan genocide because it was just too damn hard to get any real information then: it was dangerous; journalists were targeted; the army’s scorched earth actions were mostly relegated to remote mountainous areas; the civilians there spoke Indigenous languages; and those who took up arms to resist were deeply clandestine. It took time, patience, and persistence. […]
We know now that attacks against unarmed civilians intensified and that acts of genocide and crimes against humanity perpetrated against the Maya people were intentionally ordered by Ríos Montt and carried out by soldiers and civilian patrols, who reported back up the chain of command to him. Ríos Montt claimed in 1982 and during his trial that he was unaware of what his officers were doing in the field. He lied then, and he lied in 2013. Guatemala’s highest court promptly overturned the genocide ruling, but its symbolic weight on the historic verdict remained. Ríos Montt died a convicted genocidaire still under house arrest in April of this year.
“We are living in calamity, a humanitarian crisis in Honduras,” said Bartolo Fuentes, a well-known Honduran journalist and former member of its Congress, arriving at the Toncontin Airport in Tegucigalpa, Honduras, on Oct. 19 after being detained in Guatemala where he tried to report on the caravan. “Today they left,” he said. “Tomorrow they will leave…. Three hundred people leave Honduras every day.”
“It is the duty of the Honduran State to provide its citizens with the means to satisfy their basic needs,” the Honduran conference of Catholic bishops said, “such as decent, stable and well-paid work, health, education and housing.”
“When these conditions do not exist, people are forced to live in tragedy and many of them hope to undertake a path that leads to development and improvement, finding themselves in the shameful and painful need to leave their families, their friends, their community, their culture, their environment and their land.”
And finally, in breaking news… actually, heartbreaking news: community leader and environmental activist Bernardo Caal Xol today was sentenced to seven years and four months in prison for helping to organize a peaceful resistance to a highly-criticized hydroelectric project in Guatemala.
Pat Davis shared an article (in Spanish) about the well-respected indigenous leader. On her Facebook page she comments:
We visited this man in prison in Guatemala during our recent trip there. He has been detained since January, awaiting trial on trumped-up charges. He had filed a case with the Supreme Court of Guatemala contesting the licenses granted to a company that has been building two hydroelectric dams on the river that provides more than 100 communities with drinking water.
The dams have diverted the river, and the traditional way of the life of the community members, as well as their health, is threatened. The Court ruled in the communities’ favor. And so, of course there was retaliation.
Bernardo’s sentencing hearing is tomorrow. He could face more than ten years for a crime that never occurred.
Son muchos, demasiados, los y las defensoras de los Derechos humanos que sufren la persecución, el hostigamiento, las amenazas y las agresiones de las empresas trasnacionales, las cuales, amparadas por los propios Estados, promueven proyectos que dañan el medioambiente, destruyen el territorio y terminan con la forma de vida de las comunidades locales.
Según los registros de la Unidad de Protección a Defensoras y Defensores de Derechos Humanos – Guatemala (UDEFEGUA), se han registrado solo entre enero y julio del 2018 un total de 137 agresiones y 21 asesinatos a personas defensoras de derechos humanos solo en Guatemala.
Hidroeléctricas, minerías, plantaciones… Según el Convenio 169 de la Organización Internacional del Trabajo (OIT), antes de ejecutar un proyecto en territorio de pueblos indígenas y tribales debe realizar antes una consulta libre, previa e informada a las comunidades locales, un trámite que se incumple sistemáticamente. Esto es precisamente lo que el líder indígena maya q’echi’ Bernardo Caal Xol, miembro de la Resistencia Pacífica de Cahabón, exigía cuando se produjo su detención. También denunciaba irregularidades a la hora de otorgar las licencias de construcción.
Fue encarcelado el 30 de enero bajo acusaciones infundadas y mañana viernes se conocerá la sentencia.
Reading about the U.S. election results while in Guatemala has been an exercise in frustration. The Democrats won… the House! The Republicans won… the Senate! Pro-Trump zealots won their races, unless they lost them.
The good news? Greater diversity in your elected representatives: In Colorado, the first openly gay governor. In Massachusetts, the state’s first black congresswoman. Two Muslim women were elected to Congress for the first time ever, as well as two Native American women! (About damn time, too. According to Huffington Post: “more than 10,000 people have served in the House and more than 1,300 have served in the Senate since the first Congress met in 1789. Not a single one of those people was a Native American woman.”)
The bad news? We (and I’m speaking presumptuously on behalf of the rest of the world, here) were hoping for a clearer and more decisive rejection of Trump’s nationalistic, xenophobic, racist, misogynist, divisive, short-sighted, ill-advised, inconsistent, and often-incoherent policies.
Now it appears that the political divide has grown deeper, the split more severe.
Even before the elections, trying to understand U.S. policy in Guatemala by observing the actions of the Embassy, the State Department, and the Tweeter-in-Chief was an exercise in futility. Call it dissociative identity disorder as foreign policy. Split personality politics, if you will.
I can’t help but wonder what will happen when Trump & Co., as well as the Democratic opposition, simultaneously claim that the election results are a clear mandate for their political platform.
“If you thought U.S. foreign policy was already poorly communicated, just wait until the next Congress, when the White House and House Democrats will be miles apart on critical issues.”
Of course, all this might end up being much ado about nothing if a recent report by astronomers at Harvard is to be believed.
A mysterious cigar-shaped object spotted tumbling through our solar system last year may have been an alien spacecraft sent to investigate Earth, astronomers from Harvard University have suggested.
The object, nicknamed ‘Oumuamua, meaning “a messenger that reaches out from the distant past” in Hawaiian, was discovered in October 2017 by the Pan-STARRS 1 telescope in Hawaii.
A new paper by researchers at the Harvard Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics raises the possibility that the elongated dark-red object, which is 10 times as long as it is wide and traveling at speeds of 196,000 mph, might have an “artificial origin.”
“‘Oumuamua may be a fully operational probe sent intentionally to Earth vicinity by an alien civilization,” they wrote.
You know that at this moment, on some golf course cocktail napkin, Donald Trump is drawing up plans for “the biggest, most beautiful Space Wall ever. It’ll be huge. And the Martians will pay for it. Believe me.”