Coo! Water

Many Guatemalan products, in order to pass as something imported from the USA, will not only use an English-language name, but even have the label instructions written in English.

Well something close to English, anyway. If you closely enough, you'll see that they almost got it right!

Take this label from MacPro Cloro3 Bleach ("cloro" is Spanish for "bleach"):

I especially like the "coo! water" and the "may irritate ayes". (Who knows what it might do to the nays!)

Freedom of the Press

Freedom House issues world press freedom report

The “Freedom House” has published its annual report on the situation with freedom of press around the world. 75 out of the 194 countries (39%) were rated as ‘free’, 50 (26%) ‘partly free’ and 69 (35%) as ‘not free’.

According to the report, five countries improved in category while two declined. In addition to Ukraine and Lebanon, Guatemala and Guinea-Bissau moved from Not Free to Partly Free.

Maybe. But you still have to be very, very careful at whom you point your camera!

"Absurd, unacceptable, and insulting."

That's how the Vice President of Guatemala, Eduardo Stein, rightly referred to an idiotic idea being kicked around by certain conservative members of the U.S. Congress. Their harebrained scheme is to classify the funds that Guatemalan immigrants in the U.S. send back home as "foreign aid".

Which basically means that the money these immigrants make mowing lawns, cleaning hotels, washing dishes, cooking meals, picking fruit, caring for children, laboring in factories, etc., will be considered the gracious gift of the U.S. government to Guatemala.

Vice President Stein rejected that political ploy:

"This is money hard-earned by Guatemalan workers, on which they have paid taxes, and with which they have contributed to the United States economy. Furthermore, many of these workers don't even receive worker's benefits. It is simply unacceptable."

Unfortunately the information is still very sketchy, and I'm not sure yet if these "remesas" (money transfers) will be simply added to the foreign aid total in order to make the government seem more generous than it is, or whether it might even be used as a pretext to cut back on foreign aid to Guatemala.

The truth is in the numbers. So buckle up, because these will blow you away!

How much will the US provide to Guatemala in military and social aid this year?

Roughly 45 million dollars. (According to the State Department)

How much will the estimated 1.2 million Guatemalans living in "el norte" send back home this year?

Roughly 3 billion dollars! (Yes, that's billion with a "b").

Sadly, the wealthiest nation in the world is known as being somewhat stingy when it comes to aid.

According to Tom Barry,

A decade ago at the Earth Summit in Brazil, the United States and the rest of the developed world promised to increase aid levels to at least 0.7% of national income.

How does the U.S. economic aid commitment as a percentage of national wealth compare with the other 22 large aid donors? The latest comparative figures from 2002 place the United States —with its 0.13% commitment— dead last behind Italy and Greece with their 0.2% contributions of national income.

Well, I guess I can see why certain unscrupulous U.S. politicians would be desperate enough to try to cook the books and look a bit more benevolent.

Article: Protect Judges

Guatemala Develops Plan to Protect Judges

By Associated Press
April 29, 2005

Guatemala City, Guatemala -- Guatemala's Supreme Court adopted a plan Friday to offer protection to 19 judges and six magistrates who have received death threats.

The announcement follows the shooting death of judge Jose Victor Bautista Orozco on Monday and an attack on prosecutor Jose Antonio Melendez Sandoval who was shot in the face Wednesday.

The plan will set up a "security unit" for the judiciary, said Luis Fernandez, a Supreme Court magistrate.

"I can't comment on the details, but the court's instructions are to make our best effort to protect all the judicial officials," said Angel Conte, who will head the plan.

Special attention will be given to judges who, like Bautista, work in high-risk tribunals that deal with drug trafficking and kidnapping cases.

Bautista was killed by three individuals who shot him 14 times as he left his home in San Pedro Sacatepequez, a city 160 miles west of this capital city.

Melendez was also attacked as he left his home in the small town of Malacatan, about 150 miles south west of Guatemala City. He is in stable but serious condition in a Guatemala City hospital.

Both attacks occurred this week in the San Marcos province, which borders Mexico and is plagued with drug trafficking mafias, contraband and human trafficking.

There have been 31 threats against judicial officials in Guatemala in 2005. This is a proportional increase compared to last year where 70 threats were registered the entire year.

Putz of the Day

Today marks the debut of a brand new segment of my journal section: Putz of the Day!

Every now and again, I will diligently and gladly shine a revealing light on someone who, through word or deed, has earned the distinguished title of Putz.

Our very first Putz is Republican Congressman F. James Sensenbrenner, Jr. of Wisconsin!

(Wait for the applause to die down.)

What did Jimmy do to earn the coveted Putz?

Was it his involvement in the Schiavo mess, his pushing for draconian mandatory minimum penalties for non-violent drug offenses, his advocating criminal prosecution for indecent material aired by broadcasters, or his campaign to make your library records available to intelligence agencies through the Patriot Act?

Well, yes.

But Jimbo is also the author and high-pressure promoter of the notorious Real ID Act. This controversial bill is designed to "save America" from undocumented immigrants by barring them from obtaining driver's licenses. It would also would require individuals seeking refuge in the U.S. from repressive or abusive regimes to provide documented proof of their persecution as well as the abusing government’s motivation. And if that weren't enough, it also provides money to complete a three-mile stretch of fencing at the Mexican Border.

Immigrant advocates said the measure would encourage a black market in identity documents, make roads less secure, drive up insurance costs, and punish economic immigrants for terrorists' actions.

And critics on both the left and the right argue that the bill, if it becomes law, would create what would amount to a national identification card, long feared as an invasion of privacy.

As Carol Rose, executive director of the ACLU of Massachusetts, warns, "Historically, governments use national ID systems to control populations rather than protect them.... The phrase ‘Your papers, please’ is antithetical to traditional American values of privacy and freedom to travel."

Carolyn Maloney, Democrat of Manhattan, adds: "The asylum provisions in this bill are so stringent that we would end up turning away most refugees, even if they are legitimate victims. We can never forget that this nation is a beacon of hope to the persecuted across the globe. It is inhumane and un-American to deport the innocent back to countries that will torture them."

Or, as a Boston Globe editorial states: Sensenbrenner calls for more barriers and surveillance technology along the southern US border. But this bill ignores the real need for laws that let immigrant workers travel safely and legally between the United States and Mexico.

Realizing that this bill is flawed, controversial, and perhaps even unconstitutional, Jimmy Sensenbrenner and his Republican cronies have attached the provisions to a "must-pass" emergency spending bill that would provide $81 billion for military efforts in Iraq and Afghanistan. They know that it would be political suicide for congress members to vote against a bill that sends money to American soldiers.

Oh, and one more thing...

Rep. Jim Sensenbrenner racked up $168,000 in travel expenses covered by private groups since 2000, more than any other member of Congress, according by the nonpartisan organization Political Money Line. Sensenbrenner, also allowed private groups to also pay the expenses of his wife, Cheryl, on eight of the trips and his son, F. James Sensenbrenner, on a trip to Guatemala.

So to sum up: Jimmy Boy doesn't want wetbacks in the US of A. It doesn't matter if they're fleeing oppression or simply looking for a better life for their families. He'll even build bigger walls to keep 'em out. And to make sure he has his way, he'll bury his racist laws in a bill to provide support for our troops overseas.

But he'll gladly let influence-buyers pay the way for him and his family to travel around the world.

I guess he doesn't mind seeing Guatemalans as long as they're serving him drinks by the pool at the Hotel Antigua.

What a putz.

A Sunday in the park

I've been debating whether or not to talk about this incident on my homepage.

The truth is that I learned a great deal from what happened, so it would be remiss of me not to take the risk and share the story with you. So, here we go...

Last Sunday afternoon I was heading towards the National Cathedral to photograph an outdoor play. The performance was being dedicated to the memory of Monseñor Gerardi, a bishop assassinated seven years ago today because of his work on behalf of human rights in Guatemala.

Unfortunately, I never made it to the performance.

As I approached Central Park I was amazed to see a massive deployment of police officers, complete with police buses, trucks, vans, pickups, and patrol cars. Evidently they were doing a "sweep" of the park to capture gang members and the like. Needless to say, the camera came out of the bag and I started taking photographs. It's what I do.

The ironic part is that nothing really exciting or newsworthy was happening... until, that is, they came after me!

A high-level member of the Berger administration who was present at the activity took offense at my presence and began questioning me.

While there is nothing wrong with taking photographs of public officials during a public activity in a public place, I realized that I had committed one error: I had left my passport at home. (Remember, I was basically crossing the street from where I live to take pictures of a play, for cryin' out loud. I had no idea I'd be facing an interrogation.)

Loooong story short... I was ordered into Police custody and held in the back of a patrol car parked along sixth avenue.

This definitely wasn't going to be the Sunday afternoon I had planned. In fact, it had all the signs of a tragedy in the making. But from strife often comes insight, and on this day I was to learn... well, relearn... a simple, yet profound lesson:

ALWAYS CARRY YOUR FREAKING PASSPORT WITH YOU!

No, I'm kidding. I mean, yeah, from now on I'll always have at least a photocopy of my passport with me... but that wasn't the lesson.

The lesson is: The police aren't the bad guys.

Now I realize that this is a rather odd revelation to experience while under guard in a police car. And some of you might be wondering if I'm not suffering from a mild case of Stockholm Syndrome: a captive identifying with his captors. And yet others might, rightly, cry: "what about the CAFTA protests? What about the teargas, and the batons, and the bullets?"

Let me put it this way: I will always reject, denounce, and condemn acts of intimidation, oppression, and violence by those in authority. Just as I oppose and lament any protest actions which are offensive, abusive, or destructive. (Surely the popular movement can rise above the merely confrontational with acts that are creative, original, educational, and consciousness-raising!)

The uniformed men and women who were ordered to detain me, treated me with kindness, respect and good humor. We even swapped stories, compared the cultural quirks of our respective countries, and laughed at each other's jokes.

After more than a hour had passed, I was escorted to the US Embassy in the company of nine police officers! (For a brief moment I was the safest gringo in Guatemala.)

At the Embassy I was assisted by an extremely helpful Duty Officer who confirmed for the police that I was indeed Rob Mercatante, U.S. citizen. (Da-da-da-da!)

Since there were no actual charges against me, my time in custody came to sudden end. The police officers came around to say "good-bye", handshakes and all, and the Embassy rep kindly called me a cab ride home.

In Guatemala there have been acts of such unspeakable violence and inhumanity as to merit the term "pure evil". And there have been, and there still are, individuals of such malicious intent, and so dark of heart, that they too have earned the title of "evil".

But the great mass of us... protestors, police officers, and photographers alike... seem to exist somewhere between the extremes of saint and sinner. What unites us, in the end, is our common humanity. And once we recognize that, we can begin to build a better world.

And that is the lesson I learned on Sunday. That, and the passport thing.

The Big Flush

I knew it was coming. I could feel it. This morning, even... toweling off after my shower, but never really feeling dry.

And then the office. Sweltering at 7am. I even announced that, contrary to Guatemalan cultural norms, the next time it's this hot, this early, I'm wearing shorts to work. Bright white legs be damned.

But more than the heat... it was the heaviness of the air. A strength-sucking humidity that hung heavy over the city.

And when I left the office, it was like stepping into a black and white photograph. All the bright Guatemalan colors bleached into shades of gray. From the street to the sky, everything painted the same color: "blah".

I oozed into a café and ordered an iced cappuccino... and waited.

FLASH! Everyone looked suddenly skyward.

Drop.

Drop Drop.

DropDropDropDropDropDropDropDropDropDropDrop.

POUR!!!!!

Disgruntled motorcyclists hastily heading home. Raging asphalt rivers swiftly washing away the city's dust, dirt, garbage and grime. Pedestrians, spoiled by six months of sunshine, suddenly soaked to their umbrella-less bones.

Yes indeed... the rainy season has arrived!

Fridayness

Ok, because today is Friday (whoo-hoo!) and because we could all use a touch of absurdity in our life, every now and again...

This is how I would look if I lived in South Park. (I added the coffee shop background).

If you'd like to create your own South Park character, go to http://www.planearium2.de/flash/spstudio.html and let your imagination run wild!

And thanks to Suburban Guerilla for pointing out this inspired bit of silliness.

Article: Amnesty International memo

Guatemala: Government must demonstrate political will to improve human rights

Press release, 04/20/2005

The Guatemalan authorities must take concrete steps to end impunity and improve respect for human rights in the country, said Amnesty International today.

In a Memorandum sent to the Guatemalan government one year on since President Oscar Berger took office, Amnesty International (AI) presents a series of recommendations aimed at tackling human rights violations against women and human rights defenders. The Memorandum also includes recommendations to end abuses committed in the context of agrarian disputes and in regard to the potential impact of free trade policies on human rights.

During 2005, human rights defenders continued to be at risk of attack. AI received reports that between 1 January and 25 February 2005, 26 human rights defenders were victims of abuses including attacks and death threats. AI is also concerned at reports of killings by members of security forces in the context of demonstrations organized to protest against mining and the recently ratified free trade agreement.

In its Memorandum Amnesty International is calling on the Guatemalan government to investigate attacks and threats against human rights defenders, ensure that activists are able to carry out their work without fear of reprisals and to recognise the legitimacy of work to defend human rights.

The Memorandum also highlights the serious abuses faced by women in Guatemala. AI has received information that more than 520 women were violently killed during 2004. Many of the victim’s bodies presented evidence of rape, torture, dismemberment and mutilation. According to official figures, the majority of these cases have not been investigated.

"These figures are likely to be only the tip of the iceberg. The full extent of violent killings of women in Guatemala is probably under-reported as there are serious deficiencies in the collection and management of data and virtually no coordination amongst government institutions dealing with violence against women."

"Amnesty International is calling on the Guatemalan government to fully resource and expedite investigations into the killings of women, as well as to modernise and reform forensic services, so that rape and other forms of sexual violence are thoroughly documented and investigations initiated."

The Memorandum also highlights human rights violations in the context of agrarian disputes, mostly between poor rural communities and wealthy farm and land owners.

According to UN figures, in the first six months of 2004, 31 evictions of rural communities were carried out, more than half of them violently. Action taken by members of the security forces often resulted in abuses such as beatings, the burning of houses and destruction of personal belongings.

"Evicting communities with legitimate grievances will only provoke more human rights violations. The Guatemalan authorities must concentrate on improving respect for labour rights, ensuring fair access to justice for all regardless of economic status, strengthening non-violent conflict resolution mechanisms, and securing the approval of a legally binding land register."

In its Memorandum, Amnesty International also expresses its concern at the human rights implications of the implementation of the Free Trade Agreement signed between Central American countries, including Guatemala, the Dominican Republic and the USA (CAFTA), particularly in relation to the right to health.

By prohibiting for five years the use of test data necessary to approve new medicines and by extending the patent period, AI fears the implementation of CAFTA may introduce restrictions to the production of generic medicines. Many Guatemalans may see their access to essential medicines effectively restricted. Amnesty International calls on the Government of Guatemala to ensure that the implementation of CAFTA does not adversely affect human rights, especially the right to health and access to essential medicines.

Oonga Boonga travel advice

Undoubtedly the most inane, and borderline racist, description of Guatemala I have ever read. From the Frommers.com travel website:

"One country south of Belize via boat or small plane, Guatemala has happy natives, some of the best bird watching in Central America and a host of boutique hotels. Day trips from the capital will cost extra but exploration is a must. The adults still smile in Guatemala, as Central America adores U.S. tourists seeking a getaway. If you like flip-flops and music, Belize and Guatemala are as relaxing as life gets."

And the best part is that the happy natives are so busy smiling at gringo tourists that they barely have time for human sacrifices anymore. Which is good news because it's darned hard to run for your life while you're wearing flip-flops! (Sheesh.)

Tempus Fugit

Here's a shocker: today is the one year anniversary of my return to Guatemala!

The realization came as a surprise to everyone here. As Silvia, one of my coworkers, stated...

Sivia: So you've been putting up with us for an entire year now?

Me: Yeah.

Silvia: And vice-versa.

Me: Ye... HEY!

It's far too late, and I'm far too tired, to do a "Year In Review" journal entry right now. Let's just say that -- while there is much that I miss about the U.S., in particular my friends and family-- I think that returning to Guatemala was one of my better decisions.

I have no idea what the future holds (if I did, I'd be back in New York buying Lotto tickets). But for now: I'm happy to be here!

Back in Guatemalaville

Sigh. Leaving Tapachula wasn't easy. I felt like the kid at Disney World who shouts: "but we can't go home... I haven't gone on all the rides yet!"

Sadly the still-undiscovered taco shops, cafes, stores and restaurants will have to wait until the next time I'm forced out of Guatemala.

Thankfully, the trip home was smooth sailing. The border crossing couldn't have been easier.

I couldn't resist, though. As the Mexican immigration official pounded the departure stamp into my passport, I leaned up next to the plexiglas window. "Can I ask you something? If I'm only traveling to Tapachula for a few days, do I need to fill out any paperwork?"

"Nope" he said.

"Well, then," I continued, "someone needs to tell that to Mr. Border Patrol guy up the road. When my bus was pulled over a few days ago, this guy got so distraught about me not having my papers that I thought he was going to wet himself."

The immigration guy burst out laughing, and nodded. "Ok, then... we'll give him a call!"

On the Guatemalan side of the bridge, the process was equally enjoyable. I slid my passport through the window, and the kind woman stamped my 90 day visa into the one remaining square in passport. (Sometime soon I'll have to go the US embassy and request additional pages.) I handed her ten quetzals, and that was that.

Unfortunately, upon returning to the office today, I discovered that (despite the "job opening at IDEM" sign someone left on my desk) no-one learned how to do my job in the 72 hours that I was gone. Which means that today was major league catch-up day.

Hey... at least tomorrow is Friday. You gotta love the two-day work week!

Nooooooooo!

A brief message today, as this will be my last full day in Tapachula. I leave on the Galgos bus tomorrow morning at 10am (pause to wipe a tear from my eye.)

Come to think of it, I have no idea if they’re actually going to let me OUT of Mexico due to the visa snafu at the border. Well, if my next journal entry is entitled “Trapped in Tapachula” you’ll know what happened! (And, no... no need to send help. If I’m stuck here, I’m stuck here. You can’t fight the system, right?)

I guess the biggest suprise of yesterday came at the VIPs restaurant, where I “killed time” (oh, but what a way to go) drinking a cappuccino frappe before heading out to see Million Dollar Baby at the movies. (Which, by the way, was quite good. Not exactly a giggle-fest, but an truly moving story about a female boxer, with top-notch acting by Clint Eastwood, Hillary Swank, and Morgan Freeman.)

Anyway, as I was paying my bill, I glanced at the cashier’s nametag. It said “VIPs” at the top, her name in the middle, and at the bottom.....

Walmart.

What?!? “Why does your nametag say ‘WalMart’?” I asked her, the dread already beginning to seep into my happily-caffeinated mind.

“Oh, because Walmart owns VIPs!” she happily replied. It turns out that Walmart also owns 687 super stores in 71 Mexican cities under the marquis logos of Wal-Mart, Aurera-Bodega, Superama, and Sam's Club --plus 52 Suburbias, a more upscale department store chain, and 235 VIP's restaurants. That information is from the stunning article Wal-Mart Invades Mexico, by John Ross in CounterPunch magazine. Ross adds that “Total Wal-Mart sales of $10.8 billion USD in 2003 dwarfed the $8 billion taken in by the next three retailers together.”

Actually, the numbers on the WalMart Mexico website are even scarier. Walmart is “the most important retailer in Mexico with 696 units distribuited over 73 cities nationwide.”

To have Tapachula lose its wonderful character, and unique personality, and become more like the suburbs of anywhere, USA would be nothing short of tragic!

So, yeah, dammit... VIPs is now RIP in my book.

Day 2, in seventh heaven.

I slept until 11 this morning. I awoke to the sound of chirping birds flitting about a flowing fountain. I snuggled a bit deeper under the blanket, becuase the air conditioner had the room deliciously chilly. I grabbed the book I was reading (The Well of Lost Plots, by Jasper Fforde) and finished the final two chapters in bed.

Finally, I decided it was time to get up... only because I had a day of relaxation and discovery awaiting me.

I opened the door to the bathroom and was immediately immersed in a sauna of hot summer air. Even the floor tiles felt warm beneath my feet, compared to the refrigerated room that I had just slumbered in. A cool shower was just the trick to ease into this new day.

I spent the first part of my day downing a frozen cappuccino drink (yeah, I thought of you, sis!) while working on a Games magazine crossword puzzle. I also ordered an orange and carrot juice blend, becuase a guy needs his vitamins. (And because I know that Mom will be reading this journal entry.)

You might be wondering why I’m so crazy for this town. First of all, when I’m here I’m not working. And that certainly has its benefits.

But there is also something about the character of this sunny, southern city. It struck me again last night why I find it so appealing. I went to the movies at the posh Cineopolis movie theatres in the mall at the outskirts of town. I decided to see The Ring 2 for a bit of spine-chilling escapism. Scary stuff. Good popcorn.

The movie ended at about 10:30pm. The night was still comfortably warm, so I decided to make the trip back to my hotel on foot. Before setting out though, there was still time to enjoy one last frozen cappuccino at VIPs (kinda like a mexican version of Dennys, but classier.)

Now, As I left the restaurant, it was after 11pm. Hmm, perhaps a 45 minute walk at this hour wouldn’t be such a good idea. Still... a sweet breeze was blowing, I was still full of energy (yeah I know, the cappuccino) and a walk sure would be nice... What the heck, I thought, if I feel uncomfortable I’ll flag a cab.

About 10 minutes into the walk, I was laughing to myself. The streets were indeed filled... not with gang members, muggers, and denizens of the dark, but with couples, families, and senior citizens sitting on folding chairs infront of their homes. Kids rolled past me in Big Wheels and bicycles. Supermarkets were open, as well as farmacies, taco shops, fruit stands, etc. All this, late on a Sunday night!

As I finally made my way to the city center, I decided to head to Los Comales for one last icy watermelon shake. It was nearly midnight, but the place was packed. Large familes, ladino and indigenous, filled the place... the kids sipping on big glasses of chocolate milk or fruit drinks. Two older ladies sat a nearby table, their conversation punctuated with constant laughter. Young couples, leaning on each other, shared plates of delicious-looking food. Singers and guitar players took turns entertaining the diners, hoping for a donation.

This place is basically the anti-Guatemala City! And I am so stress-free right now that I feel like a slab of butter on a Tapachula afternoon street.

More tomorrow from your blissfully melted correspondent in Southern Mexico!

Where in the world is Rob?

Safe and sound (and sweaty) in Tapachula.

Ok, I know what some of you are wondering. Since when has Tapachula been a part of El Salvador?

Well, to those who know me, this will come as no surprise: there was a last minute change of plans. My friend Lourdes gave me the wonderful gift of a relaxing weekend at the beach in Monterrico. She was then going to drop me off at the nearby Salvadoran border so that I could renew my Guatemalan visa.

But towards the end of the trip, she confessed her apprehension at driving back to Guatemala City alone. Well, of course I decided to ride with here back to Guatemala City.

Back at home, I thought: what the heck, I might as well return to my old getaway: Tapachula, a small city Chiapas, Mexico… some six hours by bus.

Many things have changed here since my last visit, some five or six years ago (hey don’t give me that “well, duh” comment… more is actually the SAME than different here. Change happens slower south of the border!)

One of the sweeeet changes is the availability, once daily, of a deluxe bus direct to Tapachula. For about $40 dollars roundtrip, you can make the six hour trip through the sizzling southlands in the lap of luxury. It was like flying first class (but only four feet off the ground!) In this one-of-a-kind, double-decker bus, there’s a "special" cabin in back with nine reclining seats. In addition to the air-conditioning, there was a movie (Shall we Dance, with Richard Gere), and a “stewardess” serving breakfast (pancakes, fresh fruit and banana bread) and refreshments. Chicken bus, this ain’t.

The bus drops you off at this barely-more-than-a-shack outpost which serves as the Guatemalan Immigration office. Money changers, kids begging for “a peso or a quetzal”, and some very shady types buzz around the line of folks waiting to check out of Guatemala.

I was a bit anxious because my visa had expired yesterday… but the immigration official was quick and courteous, and charged me nothing more than the usual Q10 ($1.25) departure fee.

You then have to walk across a short bridge into Mexico, and hit the Mexican Immigration offices. Here the process was, if it were possible, even quicker and easier. The officer asked my destination. I replied “Tapachula.” He said “That’s as far as you’re going?” “Yep,” I answered. He stamped my passport and handed it back to me.

This seemed too good to be true. “Um, excuse me” I inquired “is that all?”

He smiled at me at me and said “have a good trip!”

Wow! I was impressed. No paperwork, no fees, no nada! I settled back into my luxury seat feeling pretty darned good about Life in General. That is, until we were pulled over at a Border Patrol checkpoint a few minutes down the road. An official climbed onto the bus and said “papeles, por favor”… “passports, please.”

No problemo. I handed him mine and he said “and your tourist permit?” “Here,” I said, pointing to the entrance stamp in the passport.

The officer slowly shook his head “No, no, no… you need a tourist card… a piece of paper…You can’t travel in Mexico without the card” he said, giving me the universal “dumb gringo” look.

Thankfully, this wasn’t my first time crossing this border. “Exactly!!!” I said in eager agreement with the surprised officer. “That’s what I thought!”

Now the officer was clearly getting confused. I told him “Every single time I’ve entered Mexico before I’ve had to fill out a visitor’s form, right?” The official nodded. “So this time, when the immigration official lets me through with a quick stamp, I actually questioned him. And you know what he said?”

The officer was now thoroughly entranced. “No, what?” he asked.

“Have a good trip!” I answered.

The officer looked at me. All of the other passengers were looking at me. He opened his mouth. He closed his mouth. After a moment of intense silence… he handed me back my passport and left the bus.

Less than thirty minutes later we pulled into beautiful Tapachula.

And thanks to a birthday present from my brother Andy, and his wife Marisa, I’ve decided to splurge and get a room at the Hotel Fenix, which actually has air-conditioning! And, in this 90 degree heat, that is a truly wonderful gift!

I’ve already had my all-time favorite lunch: Torta Cubana y licuado de sandia (Cuban sandwich and a watermelon shake) at Los Comales Restaurant near the park. Now I’m off to stroll the city streets. Maybe later I’ll catch a movie.

Exile is hell.

Today is a big yay day.

Today is my birthday. (Yay!)

Today marks my 200th journal entry. (Yay!)

Today there will be a partial eclipse of the sun. (Yay!)

Today I'll be heading to Monterrico, a black sand beach on the Pacific, with a friend. (Yay!)

And then: I'll be traveling to El Salvador for three days of visa --and hopefully personal-- renewal! (Yay!)

I thank of all you who have already sent Birthday wishes, and all of you who will send them! I'll be back in touch, and back online, this Wednesday.

[You all have my permission not to visit for the website for the next five days.]

Kicked out of Guatemala.

In this amusing game of chutes and ladders that we call life, I just landed on a big 'ol chute.

I went to the Immigration offices today (pause for the groans of anyone anywhere who has ever had to go to an Immigration office for any reason.) My visa was about to expire, so I went to request an extension.

The irony is that I couldn't stop my visa from expiring because my Visa had expired.

Long (admittedly boring) story short: in order to request an extension, you need to present a credit card. Somehow this proves to the powers-that-be that you are financially sound enough to remain in Guatemala for another 90 days.

The problem is that my Visa card had expired last week. Sure, the new card had arrived in NY and had been activated by my sister (who is no doubt using it to shop on Ebay as we speak.) Sure, the only difference between the card that I held in my hand and the card in NY is that the other has "08" in the expiration date. Sure, I tried to explain this to the zombie-like bureaucrat behind the glass...

So now I have to leave the country. In order to renew my visa I have to hightail it across the border for 3 days. I have chosen El Salvador as my migra-imposed place of exile.

The funny part is... I have no idea where I'm going! I've asked a friend of mine to drop me at the border and then I'll "wing it" from there. I figure that as long as I have my camera, a good book, and a sense of adventure, I'll be fine.

Looks like I'm taking some vacation days after all!

Scary racist vigilante types

As Guatemala moves forward in combating racism with a landmark court decision, it seems that the United States is sinking deeper into a swamp of xenophobic fear disguised as patriotism.

The "Minuteman Project", an armed right-wing paramilitary group, began patrolling the Arizona-Mexico border two days ago in order to "stop illegals from coming across".

As one of the articles on their website states:

What will those illegal aliens and drug smugglers see on the border come April 1, 2005? They are going to meet with a miles long line of organized, military-style, determined, gritty and pissed-off American patriots in tents, motor-homes and pickup trucks standing by campfires and from every walk of life.

The vigilante wannabes add:

Most illegals will try to avoid confrontation if at all possible. They are more afraid of the "uncontrolled vigilantes" than they are of anyone wearing a badge.

And they definitely have the support of some sadly misguided American "patriots", as evidenced on their comments page:

If I were near you, I would participate. I live in Georgia. It is a sad day that our gov't. sits on their backsides while these illegals are ruining our country. Around here, blacks used to be the majority you would see in the health departments. These days, hispanics are the majority and few Americans can get treated.

and:

Hi , I just wanted to say that I wish you all the success possible with this project, If I had the time I would join you myself! There are more illegal aliens here, than we Native Americans, and they bleed our welfare and social services big time! Our Border Patrol has sucked for decades and its about time that someone is doing something about it!

The patrol also has drawn major interest on White supremacist Web sites and in their chat rooms. An Aryan Nation site links directly to the Minuteman Project home page with the words: "A call for action on part of all Aryan soldiers."

Racist Rep. Tom Tancredo, of Colorado, before giving the keynote speech at the Minuteman cross-burning... I mean, meeting... said "I am going to Tombstone on Friday to tell those good citizens they are heroes, not 'vigilantes,' and that tens of millions of Americans are there with them in spirit".

So far, the Minuteman have limited success in chasing down the "invaders":

Earlier this weekend, an illegal alien from Guatemala stumbled into the bible camp where the MMP is operating. He inadvertently wandered into the hornets' nest...

But the overzealous border-watchers seem to be providing the Border Patrol with more headaches than help, according to this article :

Minuteman Project volunteers are setting off sensors and creating footprints that are leading Border Patrol agents on wild goose chases, said Andy Adame, an agency spokesman. What is happening is the trackers follow the footprints and end up coming "upon a bunch of civilians, the volunteers," he said. "It's untrained civilians walking around jeopardizing our mission," he said.

And in the end, the uninformed arguments of these sixty-second boys (ok, Minutemen) concerning the "threats" of illegal immigrants are as empty as their beer coolers after a day under the Arizona sun.

As for the "drain" that undocumented workers place on the US economy, I found this New York Times article very telling:

Illegal Immigrants Are Bolstering Social Security With Billions

By Eduardo Porter

Stockton, Calif. - Since illegally crossing the Mexican border into the United States six years ago, Ángel Martínez has done backbreaking work, harvesting asparagus, pruning grapevines and picking the ripe fruit. More recently, he has also washed trucks, often working as much as 70 hours a week, earning $8.50 to $12.75 an hour.

Not surprisingly, Mr. Martínez, 28, has not given much thought to Social Security's long-term financial problems. But Mr. Martínez - who comes from the state of Oaxaca in southern Mexico and hiked for two days through the desert to enter the United States near Tecate, some 20 miles east of Tijuana - contributes more than most Americans to the solvency of the nation's public retirement system.

Last year, Mr. Martínez paid about $2,000 toward Social Security and $450 for Medicare through payroll taxes withheld from his wages. Yet unlike most Americans, who will receive some form of a public pension in retirement and will be eligible for Medicare as soon as they turn 65, Mr. Martínez is not entitled to benefits.

He belongs to a big club. As the debate over Social Security heats up, the estimated seven million or so illegal immigrant workers in the United States are now providing the system with a subsidy of as much as $7 billion a year.

While it has been evident for years that illegal immigrants pay a variety of taxes, the extent of their contributions to Social Security is striking: the money added up to about 10 percent of last year's surplus - the difference between what the system currently receives in payroll taxes and what it doles out in pension benefits. Moreover, the money paid by illegal workers and their employers is factored into all the Social Security Administration's projections.

Illegal immigration, Marcelo Suárez-Orozco, co-director of immigration studies at New York University, noted sardonically, could provide "the fastest way to shore up the long-term finances of Social Security."

So now know you know... if the Social Security system collapses... it was the Minutemen's fault!

One of those days

Grrrrr.

Ever wake up in the morning and know -- just know -- that this is going to be one of THOSE days? You're laying there in bed... your eyes slowly open... and the very first thought that rolls across the still-foggy landscape of your mind is:

"Oh, hell."

Well, today was -- is -- one of those days. Not a tragic day, not a traumatic day... but one of those days when nothing will go your way.

One of those days when you feel the need to just "get through" your work. (I tried, but just couldn't muster much interest in the Italian elections, Bolivian autonomous regions, or kidnapped Iraqi generals. Sorry.)

One of those days that the spellchecker in Word automatically changes all of your correctly spelled words into words of a different language. (And no, I don't want to install the French dictionary.)

One of those days that you receive almost no email, and the letters you do receive are the ones you wish you hadn't. (You know who you are.)

One of those days that your internet connection melts down, your favorite restaurant doesn't have any open tables at lunch, and people give you wide berth on the street just because you have that look on your face.

One of those days that you think: "nah, I'd better not write a journal entry today, because it will come out all bitchy-moany." But then you decide: "no, what the heck, I'll try to do the right thing and write something." But then, halfway through, you realize that it is even MORE bitchy-moany than you feared it might be (no tables at a freakin' restaurant?!?!), but by now you can't bear the thought of having wasted all that time coming up with a journal entry that no one will ever read, so you decide to finish the damn thing as quickly as possible before you change your mind again.

One of those days.

Well, enough of that. In Guatemala today there was actually a small ray of light, something as close to good news as news gets here! If you thought the above journal entry was lame, self-indulgent, boring, pitiful, or just plain bitchy-moany ... here's a story of justice and hope for you:

Five get jail for racism against Guatemala's Menchu

By Frank Jack Daniel, Reuters

Five Guatemalans were found guilty on Monday of racial discrimination against Nobel prize winner Rigoberta Menchu in the Central American country's first racism trial.

During the month-long trial, prosecution lawyers ran video footage showing the five pushing, shoving and screaming racist abuse at Menchu during a 2003 Constitutional Court hearing related to a repeat bid for the presidency by retired Gen. Efrain Rios Montt.

"Go back to the market and sell tomatoes, Indian!" they yelled at Menchu, a Maya Indian, during that earlier hearing.

A tribunal of three judges sentenced each to three years and two months in prison for discrimination and disturbing the peace. Each must pay a $400 fine and can avoid imprisonment by paying additional fines of about $10 for each day of jail time under the sentence.

Menchu, an activist for Maya Indian rights, who won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1992, was cheered by supporters after the verdict. She described the sentence as "marvelous."

"Today we have a great experience that we can communicate to our children, that nobody should discriminate against anybody else, that nobody should offend the dignity of anybody else just because they speak another language or come from another part of the country," she told reporters.

The convicted are members of the opposition Guatemalan Republican Front and include Juan Pablo Rios, the grandson of party leader and former dictator Rios Montt. The four women are: former lawmaker Enma Samayoa; a member of the Central American Parliament, Ana Lopez; and two activists from the Republican Front party, Mirna Orellana and Elvia Morales.

The convicted declined to comment after hearing the sentence read in the Supreme Court. The defense said it would appeal after analyzing the sentence.

The ruling sets a precedent against the racism that is part of daily life for many of the Maya Indians, who make up more than half of Guatemala's 12 million inhabitants.

A United Nations representative last year described Guatemala's racism as "deep and serious," but until 2002 no legislation prohibited discriminatory behavior.

Maya women, whose vivid hand-woven clothes make them easily visible in cities and highland villages, are particularly vulnerable to discrimination.

Rios Montt's 1982-83 presidency coincided with the most violent years of Guatemala's 36-year civil war, in which some 200,000 people were killed or disappeared, most of them Mayan civilians killed by the army.

Article: CAFTA hurts

To all of those who wonder if the protests are really having an effect, read the following article. (This news, I should add, will come as a rude wake-up call to the government who has been pouring enormous financial resources into producing and placing pro-CAFTA ads on television. That's gotta hurt!)

Guatemalans Decry CAFTA Deal With U.S.

(Angus Reid Global Scan, April 3.) The perceptions of adults in Guatemala on a commerce agreement have changed dramatically, according to a poll by CID-Gallup. 65 per cent of respondents believe the Central American Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA) will hurt the country, a 30 per cent increase since December.

In May 2004, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras and Nicaragua agreed to the trade deal with the United States. The Dominican Republic followed suit in August. The agreement—which would reduce or eliminate taxes and tariffs on imports—still has to be approved by each country’s legislative branch.

Last month, widespread demonstrations against the deal took place in several cities and towns. On Mar. 10, the Congress of the Republic approved the agreement after a 126-12 vote, but public protests continued. Guatemalan president Óscar Berger sanctioned the deal on Mar. 15.

Labor unions and peasant leaders had called for a nationwide referendum to ratify the agreement.